The Best Rock and Mountain Climbing Destinations in North America
Yosemite:
Yosemite is home to some of the world's most impressive and iconic rock formations. From towering granite cliffs to giant sequoia trees, the park is filled with natural beauty that will leave you breathless.
Most of the rocks in Yosemite are granitic, a type of plutonic igneous rock formed when molten magma cools underground slowly over millions of years. They're characterized by their "salt and pepper" appearance, with felsic minerals like quartz, potassium feldspar, and plagioclase feldspar on one side of the spectrum and mafic minerals such as biotite and hornblende on the other.
You can climb some of Yosemite's famous rock walls and peaks (including El Capitan, Half Dome, and Clouds Rest) from the Valley floor, but there are also more off-the-beaten-path routes to explore. Climbers from around the globe visit Yosemite each year to test their climbing skills against these soaring granite towers.
The best time to climb in Yosemite is in the fall when the weather is cooler and the colors are brighter. There's less crowding, too, making it easy to find your way to popular destinations.
There's a reason that Yosemite has been called the "Garden of Eden." Not only is it home to some of the world's most beautiful landscapes, but it's also an important habitat for plants and animals. It's a place for hiking, camping, rafting, fishing, stargazing, and even snowshoeing and skiing!
Joshua Tree:
Joshua Tree is a popular destination for rock climbing and hiking with thousands of soaring cliffs and rocky formations. It’s also a popular spot for stargazing, with a clear night sky and an abundance of stars to see.
One of the most unique features of this park is its geologically sculpted rock formations that are formed by millennia of wind and water. The most awe-inspiring of these is the Arch Rock.
This rock is a natural landmark and is easily accessible by hikers who head to White Tank Campground or Twin Tanks Parking Area. The trail is a half-mile out and back, and it offers great views of the surrounding desert.
The park is home to many wildlife species, including bighorn sheep and sand foxes. These can be spotted along trails like the Barker Dam Trail and Wall Street Mill Trail.
Another fun activity in the park is birding, where you’ll likely spot some of the region’s year-round resident aviary species, as well as brightly colored warblers and birds of prey as they migrate. The park is also a top-notch place to see the Perseid meteor shower in August, which draws climbers and photographers from around the world.
The great time to go to Joshua Tree is overdue fall and early spring while temperatures are cooler and crowds are at their lowest. These months are ideal for hiking and camping, but be sure to pack warm layers if you’re planning on spending much time outside.
Ten Sleep:
Ten Sleep Canyon, located in north central Wyoming, is home to a large inventory of bolted sport climbs. The canyon consists of huge bands of dolomite (similar to limestone) that flank a wide canyon, offering plenty of routes for beginners to advanced climbers.
Ten Sleep is a very popular climbing destination with hundreds of aesthetic climbs that are crimpy, pocketed, and well-bolted. Generally, the routes are around 60 meters long and can be found throughout the canyon.
The most comprehensive guidebook available is Aaron Huey's Wacky 2nd edition, but you can also find plenty of information online and with local guides. The climbs are mostly single-pitch, but there are a few multi-pitches in the canyon.
One of the most important things to know about Ten Sleep is that it's a very lighthearted, friendly, and relaxed community. That's why the route names are often gimmicky, irreverent, and off-color.
While the climbs are a lot of fun, Ten Sleep isn't a place for serious trad or traditional rock. Most of the routes are slab-y and tend to be quite steep.
In the past few years, many heavily manufactured routes have surfaced in Ten Sleep, and a group of climbers called a meeting to discuss the issue in 2018. Louie Anderson, a guidebook author who moved to Ten Sleep from California in 2016, and his wife Valarie have been at the center of the controversy, with many in the climbing community accusing them of manufacturing their routes.
